Abstract

In order to outline the performance limiting factors and to conduct an effective training process in rock climbing a characteristic of the physical activity is needed. On this basis proper training exercises and methods could be designed. Rock climbing has a variable character of the workload, includes many sub disciplines and demands complex development of the motor abilities. Different types of climbing vary in intensity, duration, methods used for protection and terrain. This may set different physical, mental and technical demands and may induce different physiological responses. Nevertheless, the performance limiting factors and training methods may be considered identical. Only the levels and proportions of development of the decisive abilities would be different. A very important characteristic of the workload in climbing is that more than one third of the ascent time is spend in immobilized positions. Climbing involves also sustained intermittent isometric contractions. These characteristics largely explain the nonstandard physiological responses. One unique physiological response is that heart rate disproportionally rises in comparison to oxygen consumption and heart rate could not be used for training guidance. Among the main training goals in rock climbing are: sport-specific strength and strength endurance of the forearm flexors, explosive strength of the arm flexors, strength endurance of the shoulder girdle and core maximal strength. Sport-specific strength is commonly developed through bouldering, hanging on fingerboards, exercising on campus boards and system training. Bouldering as a sport-specific exercise is highly effective for developing strength in unity with sports technique. However, the necessary training load cannot always be achieved due to difficulties of coordinative nature. Thus, special-preparatory strength exercises are widely used. Fingerboard hanging can enhance maximal strength and intramuscular coordination. Campus board training is a proven in the practice extraordinary tool for developing explosive strength, improving rate of force development, as well as intramuscular and intermuscular coordination. System training is a special form of strength training used to improve mainly intramuscular coordination. For endurance training mostly interval methods for developing aerobic and anaerobic capabilities are used in the form of long bouldering or traversing, top rope and lead climbing. As rock climbing has a variable character and many climbing conditions are possible (i.e. route length and inclination, holds’ sizes, shapes and situation) it is difficult to standardize training and testing, to evaluate the performance limiting factors and to uncover workload control indicators. Nevertheless, the profound knowledge on different aspects of rock climbing is a precondition for enhancing performance through designing effective training methods which should highly reflect specificity to climbing. Verf.-Referat