Abstract des Autors

Objectives. Based on reports of major overuse injuries in the fingers of adult elite rock climbers, we performed a cross-sectional study of young Swiss elite rock climbers to assess the finger injury patterns and search for possible risk factors. Methods. Twenty-nine 10- to 17-year-old nationally ranked rock climbers took part in the study. Climbing and injury history was assessed by interview, followed by a clinical examination of the hands and antero-posterior and lateral radiographs of both hands. Injury pattern and possible predictors of injury were determined. The climbers were divided into two groups: group 1 included those with current pain in the finger (n=21) and group 2 was free of pain (n=8). Results. Twenty-one of 29 climbers reported current or recurring pain in the fingers. Clinical findings among both groups consisted of swelling in the affected PIP/DIP joints, radio-ulnar laxity and/or an extension deficit in the affected PIP or DIP joints, and mild bowstringing of the pulley system. Radiologically there was one old flake fracture and four abnormalities of the epiphysis as a possible sign of a previous epiphyseal injury of the affected joints. The only clinical finding among the injured climbers, which discriminated group 1 from group 2 was swelling of the proximal interphalangeal joints (chi-square, p<0.05). Age, weight, general laxity, start of regular climbing training (age), climbing difficulty, increase in climbing difficulty per year, training volume during the last season, climbing technique and grip strength did not predict injury. No severe injuries were found in this study. Conclusion. Young elite rock climbers are prone to finger pain as possible sign of injury or overuse. Despite extensive load application to the fingers of our young elite rock climbers, they do not show major injuries, even though pain is a common finding. Nevertheless, those with pain, swelling or a deficit of range of motion in the PIP or DIP joints of the finger should be evaluated to exclude intraarticular lesions such as epiphysiolysis as previously reported. Verf.-Referat