An estimation of the load rate imparted to a climbing anchor during fall arrest
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| Deutscher übersetzter Titel: | Eine Einschätzung der Höhe der Last, die bei einem Absturz auf den Kletterhaken einwirkt |
|---|---|
| Autor: | Custer, Dave |
| Erschienen in: | The engineering of sport 6. Volume 1: Developments for sports : Proceedings of the ISEA 2006 - Munich, Germany |
| Veröffentlicht: | New York (N.Y.): Springer (Verlag), 2006, S. 45-50, Lit. |
| Forschungseinrichtung: | International Sports Engineering Association |
| Format: | Literatur (SPOLIT) |
| Publikationstyp: | Sammelwerksbeitrag |
| Medienart: | Gedruckte Ressource |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online Zugang: | |
| Erfassungsnummer: | PU200809003064 |
| Quelle: | BISp |
Abstract
The strength of ice anchors is, in part, a function of the load rate; increasing the jerk of the decelerating climber reduces anchor strength in brittle ice. To provide a rule of thumb estimate of the load rate imparted to a climbing anchor during fall arrest, a simple, algebraic formula for load rate is derived. As a first approximation, the load rate is proportional to both the rope modulus and the square root of the fall factor and is inversely proportional to the square root of the length of rope between the belayer and the falling climber. Load rate considerations suggest that ice climbers should use low modulus ropes and avoid high fall factor falls close to the anchor. Verf.-Referat