Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing
Deutscher übersetzter Titel: | Einfluss von Grifftiefe und Grifftechnik auf die maximale Fingerkraft im Klettersport |
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Autor: | Amca, Arif Mithat; Vigouroux, Laurent; Aritan, Serdar; Berton, Eric |
Erschienen in: | Journal of sports sciences |
Veröffentlicht: | 30 (2012), 7, S. 669-677, Lit. |
Format: | Literatur (SPOLIT) |
Publikationstyp: | Zeitschriftenartikel |
Medienart: | Gedruckte Ressource |
Sprache: | Englisch |
ISSN: | 0264-0414, 1466-447X |
DOI: | 10.1080/02640414.2012.658845 |
Schlagworte: | |
Online Zugang: | |
Erfassungsnummer: | PU201402000974 |
Quelle: | BISp |
Abstract
The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopted during climbing according to the chosen grip technique. For trainers and designers, a polynomial regression model was proposed in order to predict the mean maximal force based on hold depth and adopted grip technique. Verf.-Referat