Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest
Deutscher übersetzter Titel: | Vorbereitende Akklimatisation mit Hilfe einer Unterdruckkammer vor dem Aufstieg auf den Mount Everest |
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Autor: | Richalet, J.-P.; Bittel, J.; Herry, J.-P.; Savourey, G.; Le Trong, J.-L.; Auvert, J.-F.; Janin, C. |
Erschienen in: | International journal of sports medicine |
Veröffentlicht: | 13 (1992), Suppl.1, S. 216-220, Lit. |
Format: | Literatur (SPOLIT) |
Publikationstyp: | Zeitschriftenartikel |
Medienart: | Gedruckte Ressource |
Sprache: | Englisch |
ISSN: | 0172-4622, 1439-3964 |
Schlagworte: | |
Online Zugang: | |
Erfassungsnummer: | PU199309061996 |
Quelle: | BISp |
Abstract des Autors
Climbing Mount Everest needs an acclimatization period of 3 to 4 weeks between 3000 and 6000 m. In order to reduce this period of time spent in dangerous conditions, an experience of pre-acclimatization was performed with 5 elite alpinists (4 male, 1 female), aged 30 +/- 4 yrs (mean +/- SD), before their attempt to climb Mount Everest. Subjects first remained one week on Mont-Blanc (between 4350 and 4807 m), then spent a total of 38 hours in a hypobaric chamber (in 4 consecutive days) from 5000 to 8500 m standard altitude. Then, they flew to Kathmandu and reached 7800 m in five days only after leaving the base camp. The pre-acclimatization period showed a 12 increase in hemoglobin concentration, and no change in ventilatory response to hypoxia. Arterial oxygen saturation at submaximal exercise in hypoxia (FIO2 = 0.115) increased from 75 +/- 4 to 82 +/- 3. probably because of an efficient ventilatory acclimatization. On Mount Everest, the speed of ascent was very high (5600 m of altitude gain in 6 days), knowing that in conventional expeditions, 12 to 32 days are generally necessary to reach, safe, the same altitude. In conclusion, pre-acclimatization seems to have triggered efficient mechanisms which allowed climbers to save 1 to 3 weeks of time in mountain conditions. Verf.-Referat